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FIERI Boston's Wine Page

(This
article is from the Adesso! Year
in Review 2000 issue.)
A
Brief History Of Wine In Italy
by Fiorentino Iantosca
The
phenomenon of wine in Italy seems to fall into place with the nature
and location of the land the Mediterranean sunshine and cool
mountain air create the perfect environment for grapes and generate
the relaxed atmosphere of wine enjoyment. Wild grapes grew throughout
the ancient Mediterranean, and Italys wine heritage dates
back some 4,00 years to when prehistoric peoples pressed the wild
grapes into juice which, as if by magic, fermented into wine. In
Italy grapevines were then cultivated both in the north by the Etruscans,
and in the south by Greek colonists. The ancient Greeks dubbed the
colonies in southern Italy Oenotria, the land of wine.
The Etruscans viewed winemaking as more of an art form and left
art and many artifacts in their spacious tombs attesting to this.
Preoccupied
by more pressing affairs such as conquest and expansion, the Romans
were at first less enthusiastic about the production of wine. After
conquering the Etruscans, the Samnites, the Greeks, the Macedonians
and the Carthaginians, (to but name a few) Rome controlled the Mediterranean
and turned to the wealth that could be gained by investing in the
vineyards. Drinking wine honored Bacchus, the Roman god of wine,
and the Romans propagated the cult of Bacchus to all corners of
the Empire, developing a prosperous trade in wine throughout the
Mediterranean lands and beyond.
Distillation
was unknown in the ancient world, so wine was a very strong drink,
with an alcohol content as much as fifteen or sixteen percent. Wine
was almost always mixed with water. Drinking undiluted wine was
considered the habit of provincials and barbarians. Sometimes the
wine was flavored with honey, spices, resin, or even seawater.
Pliny
writes that by 154 BC wine production in Italy was unsurpassed.
Pliny, known for his written works about the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius,
was also the author of Natural History, a series that explores among
many other things the history of wine and its viticulture and vinification.
From him we learn that traditionally the best wine was reputed to
be the Caecuban from Latium. It no longer existed, however, because
Nero had dug up the vineyards for the construction of a canal. During
Plinys lifetime, the first century AD, the best wine was Falernian.
This changed with the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius that destroyed some
of the best vineyards in Italy. Ironically it is the eruption of
the volcano that allows us the greatest insight into the daily life
of Romans. As the hot ash and lava smothered Pompeii, the city was
instantly buried - freezing forever a vivid picture of Roman life
at the time. It is in Pompeii that we become aware of the important
role wine played in the daily life of Italians. Some two hundred
taverns have been identified in Pompeii; eight on a single street
near the public bathhouses. On one wall the price list reads For
one as you can drink wine; for two, you can drink the best; for
four, you can drink Falernian. (as = a monetary unit)
The
Romans were sophisticated in their knowledge of viticulture and
enology that their techniques were not equalled again until the
17th or 18th century when Italians and other Europeans began to
regard winemaking as a science. An example of the Roman expertise
in winemaking can be observed in the production of vintage wines.
Because the Romans stored wine in large amphorae, which were airtight,
they were able to age and store wine for extended periods of time.
Throughout Europe amphorae were later replaced with wooden barrels
making it impossible to preserve wine for an extended period of
time. Vintage wines did not reappear until the 17th century, with
the development of the glass bottle and cork. Italys relationship
with wine has been a long one, and it continues to dominate despite
the affairs wine has had with other nations. Wines are produced
in every region of Italy, making the boot the largest producer of
wine in the world. It also exports more wine than any other country.
Italian wines are the top imported wines in the United States. Like
in Pompeii almost two thousand years ago, Italian wines still range
from expensive collectors items to everyday
wines. Today Italy governs its winemaking with the most stringent
laws in the world and is pledged to continue perfecting its regulations.
It is no wonder that Italy remains a paradise for wine lovers!
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